by On the surface it could be any typical, medieval, baroque’d up, European city but there is a fascinating history and importance to this eastern-most gem of Europe, Košice Slovakia waiting to be explored!
My visit was not only an interesting lesson in the political and spiritual development of Eastern Europe but it was also a chance to dive deep into a still strong culinary tradition. Cabbage is the star (for sure this time of the year – autumn) and the Hungarian influence is still strong here as paprika is featured heavily in many traditional dishes. Sheep’s cheese and dumplings are prevalent on menus but not as much as I saw in the more central, hilly region of Slovakia. The biggest impression was the amount of from-scratch cooking happening in these kitchens. Almost every place and the entire menu options were made in house!
I wandered a lot over my 4 days in Kosšice and most experiences were left to my memories and not my camera role, but I did capture quite a few interestkng, delicious & must-explores for you to add to your list and make it a point to go and explore Košice!
THINGS TO DO & SEE
📍St. Elizabeth Cathedral: Hlavné námestie 3, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia… visit for free or instead I recommend pay 8€ and get the informative handheld audio tour to explore with. The most important Gothic church of the Carpathian Basin and still largest in Slovakia was built here in Košice in honour of St. Elizabeth. To this day it is still one of the most underrated Cathedrals in the world that tourists neglect to visit! Gorgeously adorned and originally the design was inspired by Saints-Chapelle in Paris. But its most remarkable feature is its massive, unique winged altar with 48 story panels, the only one of its kind in the world that is still completely original and in its original location. A breathtaking piece of religious art and just one of many unique altars that can be found here, as well as 10 important relics, a crypt with important revolutionaries intermed below to visit. Also very unique is a special interior spiral pilgrims staircase, the last remaining architectural wonder of it’s kind in the world; leading to a relic balcony that would have been visited by pilgrims walking the gothic pilgrimage of St Elizabeth centuries before.
📍St Michael’s Chapel & The Bell Tower… flanking St Elizabeth Cathedral on historic square… unfortunately both were closed during my visit but both are beautiful medieval structures containing much history to explore. The chapel walls have old grave covers and tomb effigies encased in its walls, from some of the hundreds of graves that once surrounded the cathedral over 400 years ago. More information from the ticket office at Cathedral
📍Flower Market: Dominikánske námestie, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia … located in the square of the Dominican Church, vendors of all shapes and sizes, from large produce selection, to honey to grandmas with homemade slivovica (plum brandy) show up here daily from 7am till noon (some stay longer- some days are busier than others)
📍Dominikánsky kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Marie (Dominican Church) – the oldest church and oldest building surviving in Košice, 1209. Although it sat as a ruin for over a century after the great fire of 1556 it was restored and later baroque’d and now it’s humble exterior hiding its gorgeous interior! Miracles tell of its well having healing properties during the Black Plague of 1709.
📍East Slovak Museum: Námestie Maratónu mieru 2, 040 01 Košice, Slovakia The city’s (and regional) history as a settlement is recorded to the 13th century but there is oral history of settlement much before then leading up to the great significance this spot had been centuries before due to its location to the Silk Road (Asian trade routes started in 2nd BC).
By the time some church based historian put his pen to paper about Košice the gold, silver and copper mining were already very productive in this region. AND fortunately much of that original wealth has been rediscovered and put on display in this massive collection of coins spanning over 1000years. There is so much history to learn from in this one exhibit found on the vault level. The upper floors of this museum contain a collection of rooms containing Gothic elements as well as Baroque period elements. The top floor is a rotating exhibit space and out back is a beautifully preserved 18th century wooden church relocated here in 1927.
📍Wander the streets … some of the best visual memories of this visit were found by my just wandering aimlessly. I recommend using the town layout from the medieval map above to explore with. (This is a great suggestion for most European cities! ) Go inside off the churches. Look for those tiny shops that still offer goods and services like it was 1960. Pop in for a coffee or a beer at every little interesting stoop. With a smile say good morning, thank you and good bye in local dialect – conversations will start and before long youve made a new friend and have a local leading you to their favorite spot of interest! (Of course use common sense and keep safe!)
WHERE TO SLEEP…
Vila Regis … basic but nice rooms, clean & friendly staff, family owned, wonderful restaurant and separate coffee shop, great location and equally great price!
WHERE TO EAT…
📍Vila Regis … outstanding local dishes made from scratch. Very reasonably priced, on 2nd floor above their coffee shop. Popular with locals so reservations recommended. (One block from historic center)
📍Stromestská … a perfect lunch spot to nourish your weary touring feet and enjoy traditional home cooked dishes mixed in with a few pub-grub choices. Serving beers and goulash for at least 150 years from the looks of the pictures on the walls. Interior has changed much since then and it’s filled with locals catching up with friends or on lunch break from work. (On Historic center)
WHERE TO DRINK…
📍Pivovar Golem: 15, Dominikánske námestie 592, 040 01 Staré Mesto, Košice Slovakia… a brewery since 2001, it’s been a beer pub & restaurant for MUCH longer. The beer was fantastic and definitely order the cheese spread stuff (I’m kicking myself now not writing down the name of this decadent magical spread!) and the sausage is HEAVY paprika and delicious with the beers here!!
📍Pivovar Hostinec: Hlavná 91/65, 040 01 Košice, Slovakia … records show that this is the oldest secular building in Kosice built in the 1400s and also the oldest continuous used building as a place of hospitality. Since the 1500s the people of Košice have been meeting here over pints and sausages. The current brewery is not only making great traditional beers but also getting creative with ales and sours. Great place to enjoy a great beer in a very historic space!
Be Adventurous! …. In a land where beer is tradition and the Slivovitz is life blood, you will discover endless places of charm with great drinks and amazing prices especially here in Košice. When I travel solo I tend to relax in the afternoon or early evening with a beer and a book rather than later in the evening, it’s safer for a solo person and I tend to end up chatting with a local. Beers can be ordered in a small or large size and a small typically ran 1.20€ !
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Rucksack Foodie
Eat Good, Live Well, Enjoy Life!
