Visit Scotland with less crowds, better prices and more authentic experiences! For this edition i’m going to share alternative travel tips “Glasgow Instead Of Edinburgh”.
The universal check off list for any popular travel destination will include those once in a life time sites you’ve saved up vacation time and money to see, but you can usually bet they are crowded, overpriced and contain very few interactions with “real” locals. But in Scotland there are so many wonderful alternatives to the usual city stays most travelers aim for. For this edition i’m going to share my Alternative-Scotland travel tip #1: “Glasgow Instead Of Edinburgh”
Commonly travelers will plan their dream first trip to Scotland and book their overnights in Edinburgh, Inverness, St. Andrews, Oban, & Skye. All of these are lovely places, but they are also crowded and more expensive than the alternatives. This is the first in my series of alternative destinations to help you plan a more efficient and budget friendly trip to Scotland while also discovering a more authentic cultural experience a little off the beaten path.
These places not only do I love for their beauty and history but they are also strategically located and will allow you to be able to explore lesser known gems as well as those bucket-list cities for a day trip. A rental car in Scotland is always best to go and find the curious little countryside gems or scenic coastal hideaways but if you are not comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road or maybe a rental car is just not in the budget there are great alternatives in Scotland. Most all the spots i’ll list are extremely well connected to public transportation options and I find the bus and train options in Scotland to be wonderful compared to my rural America home, which is non existent in public services.
GLASGOW: THE EDINBURGH ALTERNATIVE
Choose Glasgow instead of Edinburgh.
Edinburgh is a dream destination for many people but Glasgow offers you a more ‘local vibe’ with a fabulous assortment of historic sites, some of the best restaurants in the country, iconic pubs filled with friendly locals, and often a more comfortable and affordable stay than Edinburgh.
Glasgow has a long and fascinating history. Founded along the shore of the Clyde river which has been the beating heart of its evolution for centuries. St. Mungo landed in the 6th century bringing Celtic Christianity and followers. By the 15th century Glasgow had became an intellectual hub with the founding of The University of Glasgow in 1451. The 18th century ushered in Glasgow as a global super power, with a huge wealth funding the growth from the tobacco trade in the Americans and the city becoming the world-leader for textiles, engineering and shipbuilding. And like most thriving old world metropolis’, industrial decline and social challenges arrived in the early 20th century and the city quieted becoming a financial focused city establishing modern-for-the-times infrastructure that is still seen today in the gorgeous towering architecture and the 130 year old subway system.
Edinburgh is only an easy 30 minute train ride away!
There are 2 major train stations that come into Glasgow.
- The Queen Street Station gets you to Edinburgh and northern routes.
- The Central Station gets you south to the UK and some western routes.
For your day-trip to Edinburgh, you can easily purchase your train ticket the day of in the station from a kiosk machine. Select Waverly Station for the most convenient station point in Edinburgh. Trains start early and run late and there are over 100 trains a day leaving Queen Street Station that will get you to Edinburgh for around $15 USD.
Glasgow is known The Dear Green Place“. This comes from the Scottish Gaelic nameGlaschu, which translates to “green hollow,” “green glen,” or “dear green place”
Glasgow for centuries, has been a cultural gem and still very much is! There is great neighborhood pride here, a city full of ‘locals’ living daily lives but also so much history and so many things to do. This listing i’m sharing is not even half of what I would recommend but for a 3-4 night stay this will definitely show you the MUST’s and convince you to visit Glasgow again!
HOW TO GET AROUND:
- Walk: Glasgow is a great walking city. There are a few minor hills woven into the urban routes and the city is spread out a bit (when the subway comes in handy) but once in a selected neighborhood, walk to explore the fabulous nooks and crannies!
- The Glasgow Subway, affectionately known as the “Clockwork Orange” is a historic 10-kilometer circular underground system, being the third-oldest in the world (opened 1896). It serves 15 stations across the city centre and West End, running every 4 minutes during peak times. It is a vital, fast, and iconic mode of transport, recently modernized with new trains.
- The Bus: There are SO many buses and honestly GoogleMaps is excellent for route planning and identifying nearby bus stops and times. I frequently use it in major cities when traveling and most always the times are accurate. And many of the main route stops have a digital board showing the bus number and arrival time.
- Taxis: There are cabs everywhere to flag down and most major corners have a taxi rank lined up with them in the evening. Not always cheap but quick and easy!
There is a city website called Glasgow life , a cultural resource where you can find endless events, museums, and ideas for your time in Glasgow. Be warned it will be a rabbit-hole to fall down with so much information about Glasgow sites and events and sometimes it’s a bit clunky but it’s worth the time to dig around to discover and learn before visiting Glasgow
GLASGOW NEIGHBORHOODS TO EXPLORE
CITY CENTER: with 2 major train stations in Glasgow city center, you’ll find a bustling city center of full of shopping and dining, music venues, historical architecure, a few theaters and full of Glaswegians.
SEE & DO…
- Britannia Panopticon Music Hall: tour this fascinating step back in time only recently rediscovered a few years ago! It is the world’s oldest surviving music hall, opened in 1857/58 and located on Trongate street. A rare, historically significant, and largely unrestored “hidden gem” that operated as a bawdy Victorian music hall, later evolving into vaudeville featuring variety acts (Laurel & Hardy got their start here), early cinema & silent films, and even famously held an indoor carnival and a zoo in the basement! Today you can tour the space during the day and attend a menagerie of fabulous events in the evening.
- Sloanes Bar: Not only is this Glasgow’s continuous oldest pub BUT upstairs holds a secret.. a beautiful and historic Victorian grand ballroom where they host their famous weekly Friday night Ceilidh featuring a live band, caller, and traditional Scottish dancing.
- Glasgow Central Station Tours: experience a behind-the-scenes guided journey exploring the station’s hidden history deep beneath the bustling modern platforms, including the abandoned Victorian vaults, “ghost” platforms, and a the social history of Glasgow from the World Wars
NIBBLE & SIP…
- The Pot Still: one of my most favorite pubs in the world! A renowned family-run, traditional Scottish pub established in 1867 near Central Train Station, celebrated for its extensive selection of over 1,000 whiskies and expert staff. It’s a cozy space both standing at the bar and sitting on the benches. With a historic feeling interior of dark wood and whisky behind the bar stacked to the ceiling (they climb the walls to get your bottle) and enjoy one of their famous meat pies while you sip!
- Machintosh At The Willow: one of the last Machintosh designed Tea Rooms from the early 20th century. Gorgeous space and lovely, historic place for lunch!
- Blue Lagoon Fish & Chips: icon of fish & chips in Glasgow with dine-in seating as well. Portions are huge so you may want to share!
- Atholl Arms: Near the bus station and Queen Street Train station is this old school gem. Filled nightly friendly post-work locals heading home. They also serve traditional pub grub.
- The Horseshoe Bar: established in 1884, a historic city-centre institution famous for having the longest continuous bar in the UK (104 feet, 3 inches), renowned for its Victorian-era ornate, dark wood interior, daily karaoke, affordable classic pub food, and a lively friendly atmosphere. (they do have sports TVs so a bit of the old vibe is gone, but still worth a stop in to belly up to that historic bar!)
HILLHEAD: step off the underground subway into a mixed bag of local vibe, creative bohemian and victorian time warp. The Hillhead neighborhood is a buzzing district full of great shops, food, bars & a couple of historic stops. Sandwiched between the University and the posh West End neighborhood you’ll find a great selection of small shops, diverse dining and great nightlife.
DO & SEE…
- Historic Stops: near by is the Hunterian Museum: the oldest public museum in Scotland, with collections spanning arts, sciences and humanities, The Hunterian is at the forefront of university museums around the worldHunterian Museum (photo).
- Explore Ruthven Lane & Dowanside Lane: This little back-alley loop mews has antique & vintage shops, book stores and little cafes & restaurants. Plus just being off the main Byres Road where you’ll find loads more small and chain shops and locals buzzing about!
- Glasgow Botanical Gardens: founded in 1817 located between the Hillhead neighborhood and the West End, is the renowned Victorian public park featuring extensive plant collections, temperate/tropical glasshouses, and the Victorian-era Kibble Palace. Situated by the River Kelvin, it offers scenic woodland walks, a national tree fern collection. (freeGlasgow Botanical Gardens (photo)
NIBBLE & SIP…
- Jinty McGuinty: a fabulous old school Irish bar where locals gather for an afternoon pint.
- Curlers Rest: classic Scottish comfort food in a laid-back pub with old-meets-new decor featuring exposed brickwork and an open fire.
- Bothy Glasgow: relaxed Scottish fare
- Chaakoo: Rich curries and insprirations from Bombay.
THE WEST END: Known as the more posh end of Glasgow centered around Byres Road, the West End is known for its beautiful architecture, charming interesting shops, lively nightlife and parks. Locals meet here for lunch or dinner or shop the many small businesses.
DO & SEE…
- Wander the lovely streets of the west end from Byrne road down along the river to or through the University Cloisters, down into the park and to Kelvingrove Museum. Here is a great self walking tour map!
- Caledonia Books: a long histories shop of 2 floors of fabulous secondhand and antiquarian books, with a notable non-fiction section.
- Voltaire & Rousseau Bookshop: a crazy deep dive of piles of secondhand an antiquarian books!
- Albamusic: specialists in second hand and antiquarian sheet music.
- Kelvin Rooms: ethical but old school homewares & gifts.
- Jimmy Egypt Musical Instruments: an icon in the Glasgow music world. Mostly guitars but can find some wonderful folk pieces as well.
NIBBLE & SIP…
- The Bell: last of the old school pubs in this area, with a lovely fire and good pints!
- Kothel: a fabulous Mediterranean menu of sandwiches, cakes, artisan breads and great quality coffee
- Brett: one of the best meals ever! Natural wine menu, small plates, creative fresh menu, open kitchen plan. Just a fabulous dining experience!
- Mellis Cheese Shop: a wonderful selection with a great staff. Grab some picnic goodies and enjoy in Kelvingrove Park!
- Goat in the Tree: casual & authentic Moroccan – spectacular and a bargain!
- The Left Bank: fabulous little brunch/lunch spot!
KELVINGROVE:
DO & SEE…
Kelvingrove Museum is a stunning architectural treasure trove of not only Glasgow’s rich art & design history (Charles Rennie Macintosh & Mary Macdonald and also the Glasgow Boys of the early 1900’s) but also art gems from Dali to Turner to rotating exhibits in their 22 halls to explore.
Kelvingrove Park: take a walk through the lovely Victorian park that lies between University Hill and the Finneston neighborhood. Where you can stroll the 34 acres along the River Kelvin, enjoy a picnic on one of the numerous benches or even book play time & balls at the traditional Bowls Green and play a round in the sun.
FINNESTON: And just a couple blocks away from Kelvingrove is the Finneston area, once a working man’s neighborhood situated on the north bank of the River Clyde between the city centre and the West End, but lately becoming a trendy place to find amazing places to enjoy dinner or grab drinks.
DO & SEE…
- Cool shops down Hidden Lane (a small hidden alcove with artist studios & shops)
NIBBLES & SIPS…
- Amazing food – Crabshakk, Porter & Rye, Ox & Finch, Murphy’s Pakora Bar
- and Great pubs like The Ben Nevis and The Islay Inn
- Visit one of the BEST coffee shops in the world tucked away up a residential street in an old 20th century musical society building, tremendous coffee and fabulous lunch.. Ottoman Coffee.
The East End
The East End of Glasgow, here St. Mungo laid down roots back in the 6th century and still rests beneath the Cathedral. It’s a historic, culturally rich, and slowly gentrifying district east of the city center. Known for its strong working-class roots, iconic venues like the Barrowland Ballroom, and the famous Barras (flea) market.
DO & SEE…
- Glasgow Cathedral: an absolute MUST when in Glasgow to see the real history! built upon the original 1197 structure, here you’ll find 1000+ years of Glasgow history, St. Mugo’s remains in the crypt, exhibited collections and some of THE BEST volunteer guides to lead you and direct you or just answer your questions. The enormous necropolis on the hill behind it also is a lovely walk and provides a fabulous view from the top.Glasgow Cathedral and Necropolis (photo HEIKEHAMEISTER)
- St Mungo Museum: eclectic collection of religious art and artifacts spanning centuries.
- Provands Lordship House: Museum in city’s oldest house built in 1471, with 17th-century furniture by Sir William Burrell, and an interesting seasonal folk garden.
- Barrowland: iconic 1900-capacity live music venue in an atmospheric, rocking former dancehall, with bars.
- Barras Market: Long-established, outdoor, weekend market for bric-a-brac, vintage goods and antiquesBarras Market (photo wikipedia).
NIBBLE & SIP…
- Thomson’s Coffee Gallowgate: Scotland’s oldest still established coffee roaster , cakes and sit-in coffee as well.
- The Saracen Head: since 1775 is a renowned, historic, and unpretentious East End pub, often described as an “unapologetic,” character-filled local institution.
WHERE TO SLEEP…
There are MANY options for accommodations in Glasgow but here are a few of my favorites and why.
- Piping Tryst Hotel at the National Piping Center: with only 8 rooms, housed in a beautiful historic building, The Pipers’ Tryst Hotel is a comfortable home-from-home located in the heart of theatre-land in Glasgow’s vibrant city centre. Connected to The National Piping Centre and with a lovely small cafe/bar on the main floor. And I have found it VERY affordable and a great location, just on the edge of the hustle and bustle but still walkable.
- The VOCO Grand Central: this updated victorian hotel attached to Glasgow’s Central Train station is the best location! Rooms are large and great staff. Lovely bar overlooking the station platforms. All forms of transportation is on the doorstep. Rates are typically very fair for the season.
- Yotel Glasgow: super affordable, super convenient, always clean and I usually manage to get an upgrade when I ask nicely.
DO YOU WANT A PERSONAL ITINERARY FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO GLASGOW OR SCOTLAND?
Email me at rucksackfoodie@gmail.com if you are looking for just a little bit of help planning your Scotland adventure with a basic itinerary to follow or would like a personalized suggested list of Must-Sees & Must-Do’s.