It was a gray, misty May Saturday, which only made the fields look more green as if that were even possible here. The air had a faint sweetness of spring blooms, and often the only sound to be heard was the click-clack of pedals turning vintage chains on this High Nelly ride in Ireland. Though there were near 200 people pedaling down a backcountry road, they all were in a peaceful moment of remembrance and appreciation for a slower, quieter time. A pedal through yesterday.
One thing synonymous with Irish nostalgia is the High Nelly bicycle. Since the turn of the 20th century, the bicycle was a part of everyday life, a necessary and welcomed mode of transport for a country lacking in motorized vehicles. Though this single gear bicycle of black steel frame and comfy leathered spring saddle is iconic, what makes it special are the memories attached to and made from it’s role in Irish life; from tradesmen making house calls, to farmers checking fields, mothers needing supplies from town, to young couples on a romantic ride, and great countrymen rousing the streets of Dublin spreading the cause for independence.
The issue of High Nelly bicycles to Irish Garda (police) and Army during WWII greatly improved their roles within the vast rural communities and many a dispatch to IRA members during the fight for independence were made upon a High Nelly. Even in these modern times, throughout large and small cities across Ireland, the postman delivers the mail on a bright yellow High Nelly bike. The stories and memories with this legendary bicycle are endless. And though nearly every shed or barn can be found hiding an old High Nelly in some stage of aging or decay, you’ll be hard-pressed to find an Irishman to let one go.
There are numerous community High Nelly clubs hosting High Nelly Rides in Ireland. Part social club part appreciation society part charitable organization, these clubs rally on occasion for the sake of community and the usual purpose of charity. Often much more than just a bike ride, clubs will organize special highlights along the route featuring historic and entertaining bits and gather at the village pub after.
I had the great fortune of spotting a Facebook post on the Dunderry High Nelly ride, only 15k it was a promising way of spending an afternoon in the Irish countryside. My best Irish friend Freddy called some mates, found an old High Nelly to borrow, cramming it and Freddys bike in the back of the car boot and off we headed to Dunderry. Located in the heart of Co. Meath there’s not a lot to be found in this little village. Off the beaten path, you’ll find two pubs, a church, a small primary school, a shop and a tight-knit community full of warm and friendly locals.
Riders getting ready at Horan’s Pub Dunderry Co. Meath Most riders were Dunderry residents but a few came from H.N. Clubs in Athboy and Trim Ireland and costumes are a must for most. Participants braved typical Irish spring weather for this annual day of fun and tradition
They also help host the annual Dunderry Fair when the streets are filled with music and lined with old craftsmen working away, farmers selling chickens and showing off their best stock, gypsy wagons with fortunes being told and even the town match-maker taking names and making introductions.
Dunderry Fair, Ireland
From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed into the fold and never fell short of a smile or chitchat. Locals pedaled from their homes down the way and neighboring communities arrived pulling livestock trailers filled with High Nelly bicycles for members to Ride. The rider demographic was vast, spanning from wee little ones in back seats, to herds of teen boys, to happy couples on tandem bikes, to bachelor farmers in wellies, to elders in their 70s and 80s.
strangers welcomed in for the fun our new local friend who we pedaled with
The ten-mile back road ride was full of surprises. The first stop was at a crossroads where stood a 300-year-old blacksmith forge on one corner. This forge like many from its days made an important contribution to the Rebellion of 1798 producing pikes for the Wexford soldiers as they traveled through the area. Here among centuries-old bits of days gone by, two young men exhibited smithing skills for us all to view. Outside the Garda (police) waved through the few cars that did come along, while the road was full of activities; ladies had hot tea and brown bread with jam waiting for riders, costumed contestants proudly paraded through the mix, kids visited with mickey mouse and petted the pony, and even some fine Irish country dancing from the little girls of Dunderry.
O’Connell’s Forge, Dunderry Ir. quite a special day to see inside this historic building Dancing at the crossroads, Co. Meath Ireland
After about an hour of visiting it was back on the bikes to the 2nd stop at the monument for the Wexford soldiers of the 1798 Rebellion for a short history talk. A unified Ireland (protestant and catholic) fighting for independence from Britain, many of the soldiers who had been marching towards Antrim and Co. Down, died and were buried in the fields of this area, some from exhaustion some from being captured. Legend tells you could always tell where a Wexford man was buried as corn would sprout the next year from his grave site (soldiers were known to carry seeds in their pockets to chew on).
The last stop off along the route was a true comical treat as riders approached this crossroads they were greeted by a ‘tinker’ bathing roadside at the well in an old tub of campfire heated water while his family of gypsies sat on their wagon step playing a tune. It was a brilliant moment and the poor guy had to be freezing!
An Irish Tinker’s spa
Though the misting rain kept on no ones spirits were dampened, as riders warmed themselves pedaling away the time chatting with one another and enjoying the serene vistas. It truely felt as if nothing else existed and I can recall a few moments of warm chills that filled me as if i needed to pinch myself – however a High Nelly bike requires both hands on the handle bars at all times for a novice H.N. Rider like myself.
Sharing pints with new friends
We finished off the evening with a few pints at Horan’s Pub enjoying the locals and all their hospitality. Between rider registration (5€) and raffle tickets, we guesstimated over 1000€ had been raised for the Dunderry Senior Citizen Charity. If you are anywhere near Ireland next year, first Saturday in May, you must make it a point to find your way to Dunderry Ireland and take part in pedaling through the past.
UPDATE 5/3/20 The Dunderry Community is raising much need funds for numerous community efforts fighting Covid 19. You can go to their GO FUND ME page and donate until May 10th which would have been the fair day this year.
Interested in more curious tradition in Ireland? Check out my post on New Years Day in Ireland